How to Find the Wattage of Any Appliance

The wattage is printed on almost every appliance, usually on a small label on the back or underside. When it is not, you can work it out from the amps, read it from the yellow EnergyGuide label, or measure it with an inexpensive meter.

Key points

  • Look for a number followed by W on the label on the back, underside or power adapter.
  • If only amps are shown, multiply by 120 volts (240 for dryers, ranges and water heaters).
  • The label shows the maximum; a plug-in meter shows what the appliance really uses.
Example appliance nameplate label showing volts, hertz, watts and amps, with the wattage highlighted
An example nameplate: the figure followed by W is the wattage.

1. Read the nameplate

Every appliance sold in the United States carries a nameplate: a sticker or a panel stamped into the casing. Look on the back, the underside, inside the door (refrigerators, dishwashers, dryers) or on the power adapter (laptops, routers, anything with a separate power brick).

The label lists the model, the voltage (120 V or 240 V), the frequency (60 Hz) and either the power in watts (W) or the current in amps (A). A hair dryer might read "120V 60Hz 1875W". That last figure is the one you want.

2. If it only shows amps

Multiply the amps by the volts. Volts × amps = watts.

Label saysCalculationWatts
120 V, 0.5 A (laptop adapter input)120 × 0.560 W
120 V, 7.5 A (window air conditioner)120 × 7.5900 W
120 V, 12.5 A (space heater)120 × 12.51,500 W
240 V, 24 A (clothes dryer)240 × 245,760 W

The result is the maximum the appliance can draw, which leads to the most important point on this page.

The nameplate is a maximum, not an average

The nameplate exists for electrical safety: it tells an electrician the largest load the appliance can put on a circuit. What you pay for is the average draw while it runs, which is often much lower.

Simple heating appliances are the exception. A space heater, kettle, toaster or hair dryer on its highest setting draws very close to its nameplate figure the whole time it is on.

3. Use the EnergyGuide label

Refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers, water heaters, televisions and air conditioners are sold with a yellow EnergyGuide label. It skips wattage altogether and gives the estimated kWh per year under standard test conditions, which is more useful.

Multiply that figure by your price per kWh for the yearly cost. A refrigerator rated at 450 kWh a year costs $82.40 a year at the U.S. average price of 18.31 cents. If the label is gone, search for the model number; the same figure is listed in the manufacturer's specifications and in the ENERGY STAR product database.

4. Measure it

A plug-in watt meter costs about as much as a pizza and removes all doubt. Plug it into the wall, plug the appliance into it, and it shows the watts being drawn right now and the kWh used since you connected it.

For anything that cycles, leave it connected for at least 24 hours, or a week for a washer or dryer, and read the kWh. That figure already includes every on-and-off cycle, so there is nothing to estimate. Smart plugs with energy monitoring do the same job and keep a history. Plug-in meters only work on standard 120-volt outlets; for 240-volt appliances, use the EnergyGuide figure or your utility's hourly usage data.

Typical wattages

If you cannot get to the label, these are reasonable starting points. Each links to a page with a fuller range by size.

The search box in our calculator knows typical wattages for more than fifty appliances: type the name and it fills in the figure.

Which number to trust

  1. A measurement over a day or more.
  2. The EnergyGuide kWh per year, for appliances that have one.
  3. The nameplate watts, for simple heating appliances.
  4. The nameplate watts multiplied by a realistic running time, for everything else.

Once you have the watts, turning them into dollars takes one line of arithmetic.

Frequently asked questions

Where is the wattage on an appliance?

On the nameplate: a label or stamped panel on the back, underside or inside the door, or on the power adapter. Look for a number followed by W. If only amps are shown, multiply by the voltage.

How do I convert amps to watts?

Multiply amps by volts. For standard U.S. plug-in appliances use 120 volts: 10 amps × 120 volts = 1,200 watts. For dryers, ranges and water heaters on 240-volt circuits, use 240.

Is the wattage on the label what the appliance actually uses?

It is the maximum. Heating appliances on full power draw close to it, but anything with a thermostat, compressor or variable load averages less, sometimes far less.

Sources

Electricity prices are the EIA figures for July 2026. Wattages are typical values; check the label on your own appliance.

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